Sumo in Japan!

Sumo comes to Okinawa only once a year.  Nate and I knew we had to get tickets to witness this historic sport during our last few months in Japan #bucketlist  On a beautiful Saturday in December, we went to our friend Hiro's Holiday BBQ party, and then headed to the sumo event!!  #excited

It was fascinating watching everything that went into the tournament and learning the traditional meaning behind it (throwing salt, clapping, etc)  As well as some fun, weird facts about sumo - read on to learn more :)

Ray admiring the delicious looking turkey Hiro cooked #yum!

View from Hiro's backyard

The gang: Ray, Nate, Kazu, Carl, me and Hiro

What is sumo exactly?  

​This sport originated in Japan, the only country where it is practiced professionally.  It spans many centuries (about 2,000 years) and has preserved many ancient traditions.  In the Nara and Heian periods, sumo was an event performed for the emperor at the Imperial Palace.  In the 1600s, it became a popular spectator sport when matches were held to raise money for the repair of public works.  The ruling government at the time disapproved of the fighting, and issued several orders to have it banned.  In response, a strict code was developed by the organizers to govern the practice.    The Japan Sumo Association (JSA) currently governs the organization but in recent years has been clouded in scandal and controversy with reports of match-fixing, close ties to the yakuza (kind of like the Japanese mafia), drug use, and the death of a teenage recruit.

Sumo (相撲 (this kanji literally translates to "striking one another") wrestlers are refered to as rikishi, and they attempt to force their opponent outside the dohyō (circular ring made of clay and covered in a layer of sand) or touch the ground with anything other than the soles of their feet.  For each bout, the gyōji (referee), will decide and announce the winning move. The JSA recognizes 82 of these kimarite (winning techniques), but only about a dozen or so are used on a regular basis.  The most common winning moves are oshidashi – pushing your opponent out of the ring without holding their mawashi, or belt, while maintaining hand contact throughout; yorikiri – pushing your opponent out of the ring backwards while maintaining a constant grip on his belt; and uwatenage – heaving your opponent down to the ground as he turns away. Open slaps to the upper body are allowed, but striking with fists, kicking, and hair-pulling are prohibited. Interestingly, if one of the wrestlers loses his mawashi (belt), the de-clothed wrestler is disqualified.  #interesting #nonakedsumo #boo (This rule was adopted after Japan began adopting European attitudes towards nudity).  A wrestler being de-clothed is rare, but in May 2000, an unfortunate wrestler, Asanokiri, exposed himself and was disqualified immediately.  #themoreyouknow

Sumo wrestlers have a strenous tournament schedule which begins in January every year.  A 2 week long tournament is held every other month (Tokyo, Osaka, Tokyo, Nagoaya, Tokyo, Fukuoka).  Each wrestlers performs in one match per day except lower ranked wrestlers, who perform in fewer matches.  This strict schedules leaves the wrestlers little time to recover from their injuries, which usually means at least 1 or 2 are absent from a match at any given time.

All wrestlers are classified in the banzuke (ranking hierarchy), which is updated after each tournament based on their performance.  Rikishi (wrestlers) with positive records (more wins than losses) move up the hierarchy, while those with negative records get demoted. The top division is called "Makuuchi" and the second division is called "Juryo".  The highest level a rikishi can achieve in the makuuchi division is yokozuna, or grand champion (they can't be demoted but is expected to retire when their performance gets worse).  As of January 2017, there have been 72 yokozunas, with 4 of them active right now.

Part of the opening ceremony. One of the wrestlers: Sadanoumi (in the green)

The Rikishi (wrestlers) show humility by putting on a stoic expression, rarely show any emotion, even when interacting with their fans.  But seeing the wrestlers around one another, the forget their stoic faces, and goof around with each other from slapping each other in the stomach, pinching each other on the nipples, and giving one another massages (see below).  They seem to have a good time and it was fun watching this side of them compared to on the dohyō.

The wrestlers giving each other some support ;)

The wrestlers giving each other some support

Selfie with some sumo wrestlers in the background #babygotback

Life of a Sumo Wrestler

In addition to their strict tournament schedule, life for the rikishi is also highly regimented (governed by the JSA).  Sumo wrestlers are recruited around the age of 15 to be trained by oyakata (retired wrestler) in communal sumo training stables known as heya, housing on average about 15 wrestlers..  All aspects of their lives are dictated by strict tradition, from their meals, practice times, and manner of dress.

Rikishi wake up before sunrise, and practice until lunch - which is eaten in order of rank.  The lowest ranks is the jonokuchi - basically glorified servants who get up early to do all the cooking and cleaning for the higher ranking wrestlers and attempt to work their way up to the top division makuuchi.  #iwantajonokuchi #pleasehelpmewithcleaningandcooking  #pleaseandthankyou  After lunch, the rikishi nap for a few hours to make sure the 20,000 calories (10,000 calories for each meal) they eat per day (#DAMN!) turns into fat.  The rest of the day is spent at the gym, doing housework, or just a few hours of free time after dinner.  On top of all this, the younger, inexperienced wrestlers endure systematic hazing and physical punishment in order to toughen them up. This is part and parcel of sumo culture and something that young wrestlers know to expect, but it can sometimes go too far – resulting in injury and very rare cases even in death.  Each rikishi must wear the traditional dress (yukata, sandals, and a chonmage (topknot)) at all times.  They are expected to stay in the heya until they retire, or get married.

There are no weight restrictions or divisions in sumo tournaments, so each wrestler tries to become as big as possible in order to gain an advantage in the ring.  Wrestlers can easily find themselves matched with someone many times their size, so it's important for them to gain lots of weight.  This is done by packing on the pounds with multiple servings of rice, beer, and chankonabe (type of stew that containes quartered chicken, fired fish, tofu, and veggies (BTW Nate and I tried this while we were in Tokyo - quite delicious, although we didn't attempt to eat 20,000 calories worth!)).  This weight gain leads to an array of health problems, #youdontsay, including high blood pressure, diabetes, heart attacks and arthritis.  And the life expectancy of a wrestler is 10-20 years shorter than the average Japanese male :(  This also might explain one of the questions I have, which is where the heck are all the sumo wrestlers??  Walking around Japan, I have never seen a retired sumo guy (or anyone even close to that size) - where are they all hiding?  Do they have a secret retirement retreat in the mountains?  #curious  #wheredotheygoafterretirement?

Ready to walk out on stage

The wrestlers before the fight (from left to right) Hokutofuji, Chiyootori, not sure, not sure, Toyohibiki

Walking off the stage

Walking off the stage

Harumafuji (werstler) as part of the opening ceremony

Harumafuji (werstler) as part of the opening ceremony

Harumafuji (werstler) as part of the opening ceremony

Part of the opening ceremony

So what happens during a match?

First, the gyōji (referee) sings out the rikishi (wrestlers) names.  The rikishi (wrestlers) begin by stamping to squash away bad spirits.  The east rikishi stands under the red tassel and the west rikishi under the white tassel.  They turn their backs to the ring and clap once.  Then they raise their right leg, stamp, and then their left, and stamp once more.  Next, the receive "strength water" to rinse their mouths and clear their body, finishing by wiping their mouths with "strength paper".  They then fling a handful of salt into the dohyō .  Why?  Salt is believed to own purifying powers, so both wrestlers throw salt in the air to prepare for their round and clearing the dohyō as a sacred place.  

Then both rikishi (wrestlers) perform the Chirichozu (ceremony before the fight) to show each other that they're unarmed and ready to fight fair.  They face each other in the dohyō, welcoming each other by sitting crouched down, looking each other dead in the eye.  They rub their hands together, and clap one time (A Shinto ritual).  In clapping their hands together, they are asking for the attention of the gods in order not to go to battle alone.  Next, they move their arms slowly out to their sides, first facing their palms up and then turning them facing down.  (These movements are a purfiication and show they're unarmed, symbolizing the sport and honesty of sumo).  And finally they put their hands on their knees, still not breaking eye contact.  These rituals are then repeated (starting with the throwing of salt, crouching, etc) until the prefight time is up #saltcrouchstamprepeat  To intimidate each other, the rikishi may throw the salt higher in the air, or stamp their legs higher and bigger to psych the other rikishi out.  This whole pre-match ritual usually lasts longer than the fight itself since each movement is carefully performed to honor sumo's core values:  integrity, dignity, discipline, and strength, intertwined with the country's Shinto religion.

After the greeting ceremony, the beginning of the match begins.  First both wrestlers put their fists on the ground.  Hakkeyoi!! (This phrase is yelled out by the referee).  Next, follows the Tachiai, the initial charge between two sumo wrestlers.  This is a key moment in the match since 70% of the fight is decided in this moment.  Fights or matches can last from several seconds to up to a few minutes.  Once the match is over, the loser bows to the winner and leaves the ring.  The winner crouches again.  Victory is announced by the referee saying either "winner east" or "winner west".  After the result is announced, the winner shows his respect to the loser by making a closing arm movement, both wrestlers are not to show emotions, only respect.

​Watch this performance below:

Purifying the dohyō (ring) by throwing salt in the air.

Watch a slo-mo video of the winning move below:

Part of the Chirichozu below, stamping (to squash bad spirits and intimidate one another), and crouching facing one another.

Part of the Chirichozu below, stamping (to squash bad spirits and intimidate one another), and crouching facing one another.

The Tachiai, moment where the bodies smash up against one another.

Stamping their feet

The Tachiai, moment where the bodies smash up against one another.

The tossing of salt in the air to purify the ring and intimidate one another #colormeintimidated

The Tsuriotoshi (吊り落とし) move While wrestlers face each other, to pick up the opponent by his mawashi and slam him onto the dohyō (lifting body slam).

Pretty stoked to be watching sumo!!

Kotehineri (小手捻り) move - Twisting the opponent's arm down, causing a fall (arm lock twist down).

More salt throwing

Some more fun facts about sumo:

• Sumo is a religious ritual

                  Sumo has been around a really long time #duh and from the very beginning it has been entwined with Shinto ritual, when it was performed at shrines to ensure a bountiful harvest and to honor the spirits – known as kami.  There are religious rituals involved in the pre-match ceremony (explained above) and every newly promoted yokozuna performs his first ring-entering ceremony at the Meiji Shrine in Tokyo. The canopy that hangs over the ring is modeled after the roof of a Shinto shrine, indicating that the ring itself is a holy place.

• Sumo wrestlers haven’t always been fat

                   Surprise!  The image we all know and love today of a sumo wrestler didn't develop until the 20th century.  Back in the day, they use to be smaller and more muscular.  But since there are no weight divisions, the wrestlers gain as much weight as possible to use it to their advantage in the ring.
​

• Sumo wrestlers aren’t allowed to drive cars

                     (what??) It sounds crazy, but this is actually true. After a serious car accident involving a sumo wrestler, the Sumo Association banned wrestlers from driving their own cars. #morerules
​

• The last night of a sumo tournament is called the ‘pleasure of a thousand autumns’

                     Words by the 14th-15th century playright, Zeami Motokiyo, meant to help symbolize the excitement of the matches and the celebration of the winner (who receives all types of cool prices and cash).

• Sumo referees live on borrowed time

                        Sumo referees, or gyoji, are as interesting as the wrestlers. Like the wrestlers, they enter the world of sumo at a young age (around 16) and remain in their profession until they retire. The traditional clothing they wear in the ring is strictly graded according to rank, and as they progress up the ranks they earn honorific names by which they become known. The top ranked gyoji (the equivalent of yokozuna for wrestlers) takes the name Kimura Shonosuke but, unlike the rank of yokozuna, it can only be held by one person at any one time.

The gyoji also carries a tanto (sword) of about 6 to 12 inches in length, showing that the gyoji understands the seriousness of the decisions he has to make – and is prepared to commit seppuku (ritual suicide by disembowelment) if he makes a bad decision!  #shit #talkaboutconsequences #nopressure  But nowadays, thankfully, the gyoji usually just submits his resignation papers instead as a gesture of contrition and in most the erring gyoji’s resignation is very rarely accepted.

• They’re not even allowed to behave how they like

                   In addition to the strict routine governing their training schedule, sumo wrestlers are even expected to control their demeanor and personality in public with rules that wrestlers must be self-effacing and softly spoken.  During tournaments they should refrain from showing joy at winning or disappointment at losing. #respect

• Only one foreigner at a time, please!

Sumo stables were once allowed to recruited as many foreign wrestlers as they like. Then, after one stable recruited six Mongolians at once, there was a mass gaijin-induced panic, and today stables are only allowed to have one foreign wrestler (defined as somebody born outside Japan) at any one time.  These foreign wrestlers are expected to speak Japanese, and must be well-versed in Japanese culture – meaning that foreign sumo face all the same challenges that Japanese sumo do, but with the added anxiety of having to learn to live and breathe like a Japanese.  Despite all this, gaijin dominate sumo, and up until January 2017, there wasn't a Japanese yokozuna in over a decade.

•  Women can’t be sumo wrestlers

                  One of the few sports women are actually forbidden from participating in, the Sumo Association doesn’t even allow women to enter the sumo ring, as it is considered a violation of the purity of the ring.

Hopefully if you visit Japan, you can catch a sumo match!  (And now you're nice and educated on the matter)

Here are ways to view sumo while in Japan:

• If you live in Okinawa, a sumo exhibition will usually come to the island around mid December.  Keep an eye out for posters or articles; you can buy your tickets at Family Mart or Lawsons
• Sumo Tournament
  •  Check the schedule here.  
  • Tickets are sold for each day of the 15-day tournaments.
  • Tickets can be purchased in advance (about a month) through an official vendor, buysumotickets.com, or at a convenience store (like 7/11, Lawsons, or Family Mart).
  • Three types of seats are available to regular visitors:
    • Ringside Seats (most expensive and difficult to get)
    • ​Box Seats (on the floor, usually 4 people to a box (tickets are sold for the entire box))
    • Balcony Seats (2nd floor balcony, western style seats, and one section reserved for same-day tickets and the cheapest ticket type you can buy on the day at the stadium)
• Exhibition tournaments (like the one in Okinawa) held across the country
• Watching a sumo practice at the heya (sumo stable)
  • There are about 40 of these located in the Tokyo area, but only a few allow visitors.  Foreign tourists need to join a guided tour to witness these which can be purchased through travel sites like Voyagin, Viator, or TripAdvisor and go for around 10,000 yen per person and 4000 yen for additional group members  (Expect to sit silently on the floor for 2-3 hours